Guffaws and chuckles at Victoria Beckham’s show underscore the fashion industry’s perpetual dissing of female designers. And the sneers often come from women, writes Robin Givhan.
It’s hard being a woman in the fashion industry. They often fall victim to the mean-girl syndrome.
Victoria Beckham, the former Spice Girl-turned designer, was showing off her fall ready-to-wear collection to a small group of editors on a chilly Sunday afternoon in New York when some in the room quietly took her earnestness and used it against her. In the past, Beckham has always mounted intimate presentations during which she would informally describe each new garment, offering up a few details about the fabric, the construction, and how the silhouette fit into her particular tastes. This time, the show, in an empty Upper East Side townhouse with elegant architectural bones and a cozy fireplace crackling in the corner, was in front of a larger audience and included a more formal runway. No matter. Beckham, who was there to greet her guests as they arrived, kept with tradition and described each and every frock.
She provided tidbits about the fabric, including an iridescent multi-hued jacquard made of three colors of threads that criss-crossed to create a rainbow of shades. Beckham took great pride in what was the 100th dress that she’d designed, a mustard-hued faux wrap style with a wide gray zipper slithering up the back. And she lamented a sleeveless red dress with a deep V-neck and side pockets: “Every season, there’s one dress that looks really simple but is a nightmare,” Beckham said. “This is that dress.”
The front rooms of the townhouse were filled with the editors in chief of most of the major fashion glossies and Beckham seemed a bit nervous, never making eye contact with anyone in the audience. This woman who has performed on stage in front of millions seemed acutely aware that she was being judged by an extremely tough crowd and afterward she said, “I’m just so glad it’s over” and joked that she was practically having hot flashes of nervousness. She needn’t have worried. The collection was lovely. It wasn’t filled with razzle-dazzle, but rather the kind of clothes that women—at least those with money and the right sort of figure—would be happy to wear. And Beckham, a wife and mother who is pregnant with her fourth child, noted that the collection was a reflection of her own maturity.
But if one might have thought the audience would have been encouraging and well, equally mature… you would be so terribly wrong. There were muffled giggles, knowing glances, and plenty of eye-rolling over the non-stop narration. Certainly, Beckham’s chatter was a throwback to a 1950s fashion industry. But that was her point—to make the presentation more personal and without the hype of the modern business. It also called to mind the manner in which Tom Ford presented his women’s collection for spring. His rolling monologue drew gushing praise from the industry. Of course, Ford’s presentation dripped in irony. And Ford is the reigning prince of charm.
Beckham’s great crime, it seems, was her earnestness. She was not being ironic. She was not being self-consciously hip. And the cool girls turned on her. It wasn’t pretty.
Looks from Victoria Beckham Dresses Fall 2011 presentation during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week at Private Studio on February 13, 2011 in New York City. 2nd from right: Victoria Beckham arrives at her fashion presentation (Photos: Chris Moore; Startracks)
Beckham’s great crime, it seems, was her earnestness. She was not being ironic. She was not being self-consciously hip. And the cool girls turned on her. It wasn’t pretty.
While the fashion business is overwhelmingly for and about women, it always seems that women have the hardest time capturing the imagination of the industry’s king—or queen—makers. Today, women such as Donna Karan and Diane von Furstenberg have a large footprint on the American fashion business. Karan has evolved into the kind of designer who attempts to capture the soulfulness and power of femininity—and for fall she did it with a collection that was all lean pencil skirts, cinched waist jackets and luxurious coats done up in a sensual iridescence inspired by pearls. And von Furstenberg’s fall collection of artful print dresses layered over slender trousers, her raucously sparkling tunics and jackets, and her sense of easy glamour reaffirmed her status as the quintessential New York designer. She represents the supremely confident and sexy dame that most every young woman in the fashion industry imagines herself to be.
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cheeser
March 6th, 2011 at 1:37 pm
hes aight,… nuthin new tho.. where are the unique new artists that arent following trends..
concept is cool and kinda new… but noone sings anymore
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Tawny
March 6th, 2011 at 1:37 pm
He’s the future.
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Tony
March 6th, 2011 at 1:37 pm
Best song on the album.
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My2Cents
March 6th, 2011 at 4:50 pm
Novacane Is Also A GREAT Track.
Brilliant FRESH New Artist.
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La'Wayne
March 6th, 2011 at 6:35 pm
aka Lonny Breaux…He’s off the fuckin chain
this aint his best tho
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DEEPERthanRAP
March 6th, 2011 at 6:57 pm
R&B??? wtf?
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Lil' Nello
March 6th, 2011 at 8:54 pm
Song is pretty good except for the couple parts where he sounds to much like Wiz!
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The Beast
March 6th, 2011 at 9:00 pm
Yonkers was some scary sh*t. I like this though.
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hey
March 6th, 2011 at 11:33 pm
Ciara tweeted about this guy! listen to novacane!
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jaa
March 6th, 2011 at 11:39 pm
‘strawberry swing’ is a devastating song.
same goes for ‘there will be tear’
i like the off center subject matter.
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Leon
March 7th, 2011 at 4:10 am
The world doesn’t need another Drake; the one we have is devoid of worth and significance.
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Douchebag Dude
March 7th, 2011 at 4:16 am
Nobody sings anymore. Even “love songs” arent real love songs. I’d rather these idiots copy Stevie Wonder or other classic artists than the current bs out now.
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AAA
March 7th, 2011 at 5:26 am
I love this song I heard it!!!!!!! So good
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Yes SIR
March 7th, 2011 at 8:05 am
Novocane is a helluva SONG!.. Frank Ocean is my near favorite artist!
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Bernie
March 7th, 2011 at 10:36 am
dam iiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiit !
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HipHopDiva
March 7th, 2011 at 11:58 pm
his ablum is really good. don’t sleep. check out “we all try” its a beautiful song :) here’s the link youtube.com/watch?v=NtZh_zWEcpY
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